Custom Fishing Ladder - Building it!! (Blog 2 of 2)

So...you're going to begin the build!  Excited or apprehensive?  Well, first off, there's not a lot you can do with this project that will ruin it for you.  You can tweek it a bit, to meet your own design needs.  It's your ladder, so make it for you!!

Some tools that you'll need:  

Sawzall, or hacksaw.  You may want to use circular saw for cutting wood, or sawzall to do it.

Drill and drill bits.  Harbor freight has a three bit set of "step drill bits" that work well.

Set of hole saws, like you would use installing a deadbolt or lock set on a door frame.

Wrench set, crescent wrench, and pliers.

Measuring tape, gorilla glue. 

STEP 1   Now that you have ladder on hand, this is where it all starts.   As designed, it has a painters tray area, as well as an upright sort of brace to frame that must be removed.  Using a sawzall or hacksaw, cut this off just above the pivot that the shelf tray pivots on.  Make it as level as you can.  Once you have cut it off, keep the upright support, and remove the plastic from it's end.  You will cut pieces from this to put covers or caps on the metal where you just cut off the brace, for cosmetic purposes.

               

     Another part of step one, is to now stand up the ladder, flip it upside down, and begin drilling holes on all the steps and platform where you think it could become buoyant. The little boxes that add strength, also produce buoyancy, and if these aren't addressed with holes, a wave approaching the underside of steps or platform will cause lift of ladder.   So, using the step drill, drill from the underside holes in the center of these to allow for water to flush up or down through the boxes.   The frame will also have some buoyancy, so you must drill some holes in vertical frame, as well as cross members.   If you wish to secretly add a personal touch to your ladder, using a small drill, drill your initials in the platform somewhere you alone know, for future identification.

     This step is one of the longest from a labor standpoint, but it's necessary, and if holes are 1/8" or less, does nothing to the ladder's integrity from a strength perspective.  Here are some pictures that may clarify this step better.

STEP 2:  INSTALLING THE WHEELS

The wheels are an integral part of this unit's stability, as well as ease of transport, whether in the water, or on the way to the car/truck.  Its important to remember that these are 7¨ wheels, but that means the axle cuts that in half, as far as actual height for rolling it around.   With that in mind, the wheels are installed on the table side legs, which aren't as beefy as the legs on the step side.   So, drill a 1/2¨ hole horizontally, as close to the bottom of each tray side leg as possible.   You may have to oval them a bit to allow for easy install of axle, but not too much.  The 36¨ althread is more than you will need, so there will be some left to cut off.  Once holes are drilled, slide three washers, then wheel, (with star side toward leg), another washer on outside of wheel, and then nylock.  Tension nylock to about 1/4¨ past end of althread.  Slide the axle through the hole, then the one on other leg.  There will be an excess amount sticking out other side, so slide three washers on, then wheel (with star side toward leg), then another washer.   Rather than walk the nylock down the threads of all the axle that's left, cut off what you won't need, remembering that you still have to put the nylock and washer on that end of axle.  REMEMBER...you can always cut off excess twice if you guessed wrong, but you can't lengthen it if you cut it too short!  Now install the washer, the nylock, and tension it so wheels move easily, don't wobble, but aren't so tight they bind on washers.   The reason for the three washers on each wheel near leg, is because it allows for more room to extend and retract the anchoring legs once installed on the step side legs.

STEP 3:   CORRECTION...The last picture shows a wheel, where a nylock was substituted for two of the washers.  This will work in the event you didn't get enough washers, as was my case in the construction of ladder #2.

The next step will involve the platform for the seat installation.  I found this to be wise, before I install the anchoring legs, so as not to scar up the floor, or rip up the carpet in my man cave.  It can be done at chest height, and most of step is done with ladder in upright position.

The first thing to do, is stand up ladder, and measure the size of the two pieces of wood you will need.  One piece of wood is smaller, and fits in the recessed center area of the tray, and the second piece is larger, and covers the larger area of the tray, resting on the smaller piece of wood.   I can't give you the specific measurements needed, because I don't know if you are going with the 300 pound rated ladder, or the one smaller.  IF you are doing the 300 pound unit, the small piece is 10 1/2¨ x 10 1/2¨, and the top piece is 15¨ x 10 1/8¨, which comes to a point, as in picture.

It is essential that once cut, and checked for fit, once you are satisfied, coat them liberally on top, bottom and sides with the polycrilic or eurethane and allow to dry.   May be best to do this outside the house, or in a workshop, because everybody will know you did it!!  Once dry, you can mount them on the shelf.   I did this by using woodscrews, driven from the underside of table, and at outside edges of small wood, so the screws wouldn't interfere with where the pedestal base was going.  To do this, you will have to pull out the trays (two) that are on the underside of the shelf.   You may want to drill four pilot holes for the screws, so they don't split the edges of wood when screwed in.   I used l l/2"wood screws, which never came through top piece of plywood.  So if you decide to drill pilot holes, don't go much farther than thru the underside of shelf, and first piece of wood.   
The pictures that follow may explain this better.

STEP 4:   INSTALLING BASE FOR SEAT PEDESTAL

Having installed the two pieces of wood, now we have to make accommodations for the base, which houses the pedestal attached to bottom of the seat.   This is where the hole saws come in.  There are two layers of wood, so you want to find center of the shelf, and drill about four inches back from standing platform side of shelf, not pointed side of wood. This will position the chair more toward the center of gravity when installed, and provide more stability in windy conditions.  As in the picture, the base has a welded l¨ tube, but that weld area is about 3¨.  The biggest hole saw is usually 2¨, so it provides a dilemna.  So, I would center, and cut through the first level of wood with the 2¨ hole saw bit, and the lower piece of wood with the 1 1/2¨ hole saw bit.   The top piece of wood will have to be gouged out around the edges to accommodate the 3¨ welded area on underside of the base.   It won't be seen anyway, so gouge away.  Once it sits flat, secure it with six wood screws, which may require pilot holes to get thru two pieces of wood.  The l l/2¨ screws worked well for this.

STEP FIVE:  INSTALLING NET HOLDER ON SHELF, DUAL ROD HOLDER ON SEAT BACK, AND PEDESTAL ON SEAT BOTTOM

On materials list, you purchased a three rod holder unit by Berkley.  First you can cut one of these rod holders from the three holder unit.   You will want to install both of the rod/net holders pointing in the opposite direction of how you cast, so neither hinder your casting....especially fly fishermen/women.   So, you may want to angle the bottom of the single holder (net), so when you are on the water, it won't be angling net toward water, so it slides out.

When you look at picture on previous step, you will see larger holes than screws, so you can use screwdriver bit or longer screwdriver to reach and secure screws.  Screws 3/4 inch to 1¨ are more than adequate.

Now, for the seat's dual rod holder installation.  I mentioned on materials list, that you needed to get the seat that has slots on the plastic fasteners holding cushions on mold.  Using pliers, squeeze the plastic fasteners with slots on them, and push the pad right off the back of the seat.   Now, drill small holes and mount the dual rod holder onto the back of seat, using small stove bolts with nuts and lock washers.  Cut off the excess bolt, so there won't be alot of excess to keep back pad from sitting flush when reinstalled.    Make sure you angle it to left if you cast right handed.  Once mounted, just line up fasteners with holes on back of seat, and push pad back on.  

Another thing you may want to do, is on side of dual rod holder, drill a hole about 1/2¨ diameter, and two inches down from top of each rod holder's tube.  Then cut twice, from the top of tube down to the hole's outside diameter, and remove the piece of plastic.   This will allow your reel's arm to slide into it, securing it better in the wind while on the water.  

Now that's done, install the pedestal on the bottom of the seat base, with the four screws included with seat.  Spray a little of WD40, or lightly lubricate the pedestal's shaft and put seat on the shelf.

Now you're cooking, and almost done!  Proud of yourself aren't you!!  It's not rocket science, or I couldn't do it either!!   Check out the pictures for this step.

STEP SIX:   INSTALL HANDLE ON END OF THE TRAY, USED TO PULL/TRANSPORT ON AND OFF WATER.

I used small 6¨ bungee cord, installed in two holes drilled on end of the shelf, but found them too ¨spongey¨, so I have since installed a gate type handle which allows for more rigidity when folding up on water, or pulling through waves.

STEP SEVEN:   INSTALLING THE ANCHORING POSTS ON STEP SIDE LEGS

This is probably the most difficult steps, but also the FINAL STEP, so YOU CAN DO THIS!!

I have considered, on many occasions, what would be best for this function, in order to be both strong when it's in water, but retractable for transport.   If you can think of an easier design, go for it, but this is what I have come up with.  I originally just mounted two 12¨ lengths of re bar to inside of legs, but they weren't retractable, and can be costly on wader's integrity if not careful!  

This step is most easily accomplished with ladder folded up, and laying down on saw horses, where everything is at waist level.  

Using a drill bit a little large than 1/4¨, like about 5/16¨, drill holes up from center of bottom of leg up 6¨.  Then drill another hole 2 1/4¨ up from first hole.   The bottom hole will be for stationary 1/4-20NC eye bolt, and the other hole for the movable l/4-20NC eye bolt, that the wing nut will be on.   The anchoring rods will have a bend on the end, and that bend may have to be shortened abit, for relocating to hole where it sits while retracted.  There are two other holes, into which the bent end of the anchors seat, which should be about 3/8 to 1/2¨ holes.   The lowest hole is for when the legs are extended, and wing nut is tightened to keep in hole, for use while fishing.   The top hole is for when anchor is retracted, when wing nut is loosened, to allow for easier transport.  

As you can see, on pictures to follow, that there is a 1/4-20NC nylock on end of eye bolt that has wing nut.  This is to keep from losing wing nut.  Before you cut the eye bolt to the length you need, once installed, be sure to loosen it the length required to unseat leg end from hole where its extended, so it will allow enough room to slide up into retracted position, and into that hole.  That's why you initially needed to put either three washers, or nylock and washer, on inboard side of wheel.  Without that space, you couldn't tension or loosen wing nut enough to allow for moving of anchor leg.  I think the pictures will explain this better.  I have   included enough to clarify this step

better.   

STEP EIGHT:  USE THIS BAD BOY!!   Oh yeah, your got to admit, its gonna work!  No more bending over with a tired back, wondering whether you should move, or head to Crosby's for inspiration, or lusting over the guy next to you with a comfortable ladder!   If you aren't enjoying yourself fishing, it just becomes work!   So, in closing, here are a few other pointers for it's use.

When you transport it, always retract legs....waders are expensive, and water is meant to remain outside them!

The handle on ladders side, will lock it closed if you position it correctly, so if you are having difficulty getting it open, once at the ¨line, check the handle's position.   

If you plan on keeping a couple fish for the smoker, you can drill a couple holes on the side of tray for the clip type stringer.  I have found the yellow corded type, with lockable clips (green) at Sportsman's are best.   The silver cheap stringers have been know to open clip when fish are twisting around fighting it's hold.

There are two trays for storing tackle, on the underside of shelf, on the 300 rated ladder, so if you plan on using them, drill a couple holes in them, for water drainage if they are infiltrated to or from fishing line.

When you drag ladder out to line, turn it around once in position, and stand it upright.  Then dig a trench with your wader heels, so that wheels are half submerged in sand.   This allows for a level standing platform, and more secure in waves.  Then move ladder into place, put wheels in trench, and stand on extended anchoring legs to sink them into sand.   May times I have fallen asleep in my trailer, forgot about my ladder still being out there, and the wind comes up.  Ladder was still there when I addressed my forgetfulness.  

If you are a fly fisherman/woman, and wish to, you can make a stripping basket with a dish tub.  Drill holes in the side in two or three places, and get an expanding bungee cord to wrap around your waist.   Cheap, and keeps all your line while stripping, out of the water.  When not in use, if you switch over to spinning gear, you can clip one end of bungee on side of tray, and let it float until you use it again.   This keeps your line out of the water, in easy reach, and improves your casting distance.

If your want to, you can mount some sort of hook or clip on the back of seat, opposite the rod holders, for clipping or hanging a handle type, thin tackle box.  If you want to switch up baits, you just stand up, reach around chair, and do it easily.

The legs on this are thick enough to mount a fishing buddy, ($175) on either leg, and with side scan technology, will tell you whether fish are in front of you or not.  Problem with these units though, is they don't tell you what type of fish they are!!  Chub? Quiqui? Trout?   Who knows?  Keeps me on the ladder longer, when I see them in front of me!

So, that's about it for me!  Finally got it done!  Hope you enjoy the build process, and I'm sure you'll begin to feel sorry for those still doing the regular ladder thing.  But it will be with a ¨been there...done that¨ mentality, and thanks that such a season has passed.   Tight lines friend!!